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A bike path next to a river with a bridge in the background - exactly the kind of accessible water beginners should look for

Where to Go Fishing: A Beginner's Guide to Finding Good Water

Quick Reference

FactorWhat to Look ForKey Numbers
Water sizeCreeks and small rivers you can wade across50-200 CFS ideal for small water
VisibilityClear enough to see 12+ inches into the waterWait if it's chocolate brown
Best timesOvercast days, early morning, or eveningAvoid 11am-3pm in summer
MovementChange spots every 10-15 castsFish facing upstream - approach from below
Access typesWalking paths, town parks, state wildlife areasLook for tire tracks and worn paths

Key Principle: The catch-22 of fly fishing is that nobody wants to give away spots, but beginners need specific locations to succeed. The solution isn't finding secret honey holes - it's learning to read obvious signs and fish accessible water better than everyone else.


The Beginner's Catch-22

You're new to fly fishing. You walk into a fly shop and ask the most natural question in the world: "Where should I go fishing?"

The answer you get is something like "Go anywhere on Boulder Creek" or "The whole section through town fishes fine."

This is not helpful.

For beginners, "anywhere" is a big place. The reality is that some spots hold fish and some don't. More realistically, some spots hold catchable fish and some don't. You can hammer the water for hours in the wrong spot and catch nothing, while someone a hundred yards upstream is landing fish after fish.

I don't patronize that fly shop anymore.

How to Actually Get Good Information

Here's the trick to getting real intel from fly shops: don't ask where to go. Instead, show up with a plan and ask for an opinion.

Before you visit the shop, do some preliminary research. Pick 2-3 specific locations you're considering. Maybe you found a walking path in town that follows the river, or noticed a park with good access on Google Maps, or saw a stretch mentioned on a forum.

Then ask something like: "Hey, I'm thinking of fishing Blue Creek either on the in-town section by the amphitheater or just above Blue Creek Park. Do you fish there ever?"

This approach works for three reasons:

  1. You've shown you did homework - The shop employee now knows you're not asking them to do your thinking for you
  2. You're asking about specific locations - They can give specific advice instead of vague generalities
  3. You're asking about their personal experience - You're not explicitly asking "where's the secret spot?" You're asking if they've fished the places you're already planning to go

The response you'll often get is something like: "Oh yeah, I love the park. Nobody thinks to go there because it's in town but it actually fishes great."

That's actionable. That's what you came for.

What Kind of Water to Start On

Small mountain creeks like this are perfect for beginners - easy access, forgiving fish, and variety within walking distance

Small mountain creeks like this are perfect for beginners - easy access, forgiving fish, and variety within walking distance

Think Small

I'm going to assume you're fairly new to the sport if you're reading this. In that case, fish a creek, small river, or small lake.

Since "small river" is relative, here's my definition: a river with at least one stretch you can wade across.

Large rivers get a lot of press in magazines and on Instagram. But what you'll find is that the people praising those rivers:

  1. Know what they're doing (and have for years)
  2. Own boats

If you don't own a boat, rivers like the Missouri or the main stem of the Yellowstone are much harder to fish well. I was fishing the Missouri below Holter Dam once - I made my casts, nothing was happening, and when I decided to move I realized it was a quarter-mile walk to get to the next piece of interesting water.

You'll find yourself in similar situations fishing large reservoirs from shore.

Creeks, small rivers, and small lakes offer two things that are paramount for beginning anglers:

  • Variety - You can fish ten different types of water in an hour
  • Accessibility - You can walk to the next spot in 30 seconds

The Walking Path Secret

Riverside trails like this are goldmines for beginners - easy parking, easy access, and fish that don't see as much pressure as you'd think

Riverside trails like this are goldmines for beginners - easy parking, easy access, and fish that don't see as much pressure as you'd think

One of my favorite ways to find beginner spots: look for walking or biking paths that follow rivers.

These paths have everything you want:

  • Ample parking
  • Easy access (there's a path!)
  • Typically underfished (people assume town water is fished out)
  • Built-in entertainment for non-fishing companions

That last point matters more than you think. If you're fishing while your spouse walks the dog, everyone's happy. At minimum, you'll make someone smile at the idyllic scene of you fishing while they walk Fido.

Because these aren't hidden, secret spots, people are more willing to share information about them. The secrecy premium on a city park stretch is zero - so folks will actually tell you what's working.

Beginner-Friendly Water Types (With Examples)

Here are five types of water that consistently produce for new anglers. I've included specific examples, but the patterns apply anywhere.

1. Town Stretches with Trail Access

These are the walking paths I mentioned earlier - but here are specific examples to illustrate what to look for:

StateExample WaterWhy It Works
ColoradoBoulder Creek through Boulder5+ miles of bike path, multiple parking areas (Eben G. Fine Park, Central Park), surprisingly good fishing despite foot traffic
MontanaRock Creek near MissoulaPulloffs every half mile along Highway 10, clear freestone creek, 10-15 inch fish
OregonDeschutes through BendUrban water that fishes better than you'd expect, good access from parks
IdahoBig Wood River in KetchumTrail follows the river, mountain town setting, consistent fish

2. State Wildlife Areas and Public Access Points

Most states maintain wildlife areas specifically for fishing access. They're free (or cheap with a license), clearly marked, and designed for anglers.

How to find them:

  • Search "[Your State] State Wildlife Areas fishing"
  • Check your state's Division of Wildlife website for access maps
  • Look for brown "Public Fishing" signs along highways

Why they work:

  • Usually stocked or naturally productive
  • Clear parking and access points
  • Less pressure than famous destination waters

3. Tailwaters Below Small Dams

Water below dams runs colder and more consistent than freestone streams. This creates excellent habitat and predictable flows.

Examples:

  • South Platte below Cheesman (Colorado) - famous but crowded
  • Frying Pan below Ruedi (Colorado) - more accessible stretches than people think
  • San Juan below Navajo (New Mexico) - technically challenging but fish everywhere
  • Bighorn below Afterbay (Montana) - world-class but beginner sections exist

The key insight: Tailwaters are famous because they're consistently good. The crowded "quality" sections get all the attention, but there's usually fishable water upstream and downstream of the famous stretches. Ask fly shops about "the less pressured sections" of well-known tailwaters.

Tailwater safety note: Dam releases can change flows rapidly. If you're fishing a tailwater, check the release schedule before you go, and be aware that rising water means it's time to move to shore. Some dams sound sirens before releases; know if yours does.

4. Small Freestone Creeks in National Forests

These are often overlooked because they're not famous, but they're perfect for learning.

What to look for:

  • Creeks 10-20 feet wide
  • Forest Service roads that parallel the water
  • Named on a map but not in magazine articles

Advantages:

  • Fish are less educated
  • Short casts, simple presentations
  • You can cover a mile of water in an afternoon
  • Mistakes are forgiven - fish are hungry

How to find them: Search your National Forest's website for "fishing" or look for creeks on the forest map. Almost any creek big enough to name holds trout in mountain country.

5. Lakes with Inlet/Outlet Streams

Where streams meet lakes, trout congregate - these zones are beginner-friendly because fish are concentrated and visible

Where streams meet lakes, trout congregate - these zones are beginner-friendly because fish are concentrated and visible

High lakes where streams enter or exit are natural fish highways. Trout congregate where moving water meets still water.

Why they're good for beginners:

  • Fish are concentrated in specific zones
  • You can sight-fish in clear water
  • Less casting required - shorter distances work
  • Hiking in means less competition

Target zones:

  • Where inlet streams enter the lake (especially in spring)
  • Where outlet streams leave the lake (especially in fall)
  • Drop-offs within casting distance of shore
  • Weed edges where fish cruise

Checking Conditions Before You Go

Before driving to any water, spend 5 minutes checking conditions. This single habit will save you more frustration than any other advice in this guide.

The Flow Check

Use RiverReports to check current flows on your target water. Here's what to look for:

Your Water TypeTarget CFSRed Flags
Small creek (< 20 ft wide)30-100 CFSOver 200 CFS or rising rapidly
Medium creek (20-40 ft wide)50-200 CFSOver 400 CFS or muddy color
Small river (wadeable)100-400 CFSOver 600 CFS or 3x normal flows
TailwaterVaries widelyCheck local guides for ideal ranges

The key numbers to note:

  • Is the flow rising, falling, or stable? Stable or slowly falling is best.
  • How does current flow compare to the median for this date? Within 50% of median is typically fishable.
  • Was there recent rain upstream? Rain 24-48 hours ago often means off-color water arriving.

The Weather Check

Weather affects fish behavior more than most beginners realize.

ConditionEffect on FishingYour Move
Overcast, stable barometerBest conditions - fish active all dayGo fishing
Sunny, calmFish less active, especially middayFish early morning or evening
Light rainOften excellent - bugs active, fish feedingGo fishing (stay safe)
Heavy rainRunoff incoming, fish hunker downWait 24-48 hours
Cold front (25°F+ drop)Fish sluggish for 1-2 daysSlow down, fish deep
Post-cold front, clearTough fishing, fish spookyLow expectations, nymph deep

When to Bail

Part of finding good water is knowing when any water is bad water. Here's when to call an audible:

Definitely bail if:

  • Water visibility is less than 6 inches (you can't see your boots in knee-deep water)
  • Flows are 3x or more above normal
  • The river is bank-to-bank and pushing hard
  • Flash flood warnings are active anywhere in the watershed

Consider bailing if:

  • Flows jumped 50%+ overnight (something changed upstream)
  • Water temperature exceeds 67°F (stressed fish, mortality risk)
  • Heavy rain is forecast in the next 2 hours
  • Lightning within 10 miles

What to do instead:

  • Scout access points for your next trip
  • Drive to a different watershed with better conditions
  • Fish a tailwater (dam releases are more predictable)
  • Get lunch and try again in the evening

Best Times to Fish

Time of Year

For beginners, spring and fall are the sweet spot. Here's why:

SeasonBeginner RatingWhy
Spring (Apr-May)GoodRunoff can be challenging, but pre-runoff (April) and post-runoff (late May/June) offer hungry fish
Summer (Jun-Aug)FairFish are in predictable spots but picky; best early morning and evening only
Fall (Sep-Oct)ExcellentFlows stable, water cooling, fish feeding heavily before winter
Winter (Nov-Mar)ChallengingFish less active, technical presentation required, short windows of productivity

My recommendation: If you're new, target September through mid-October. Stable flows, moderate temperatures, active fish, no crowds after Labor Day.

Time of Day

TimeSummerSpring/Fall
Dawn-9amPrime timeGood
9am-11amGoodPrime time
11am-3pmSlow (wait for evening)Still fishable
3pm-6pmGoodPrime time
6pm-darkPrime timeGood

The pattern: In summer, fish the edges of the day. In spring and fall, you have more flexibility - fish are active through midday. In winter, fish the warmest part of the day (11am-3pm).

How to Pick a Specific Spot

Look for Signs of Use

Don't try to be completely original. Other anglers have already found the good spots. Your job is to find evidence of that.

Good signs:

  • Pulloffs with plenty of tire marks
  • Parking lots with 1 or 2 rod vaults on cars
  • Beaten-down paths to the water
  • Worn spots on the bank where people clearly fish

What you're looking for: Not the most popular spot (that might be overcrowded), but evidence that some people fish there regularly and presumably catch fish.

Know What You Find Enjoyable

Before picking where to go, ask yourself what you want from the day:

Are you really there for fishing, or is it about the setting?

  • If you want an alpine lake experience, the fishing is a bonus - you're really on a hike
  • If you want to catch lots of fish, that alpine lake might frustrate you

What defines success for you?

  • Lots of fish?
  • One really big fish?
  • Being somewhere beautiful?
  • Learning something new?

This isn't your job - it's a hobby. Do it in a way you'll find rewarding.

Are you fishing with someone who doesn't fish?

  • If your spouse doesn't fish, go somewhere with something for everyone
  • Town paths, parks with other activities, scenic areas with trails
  • Don't be selfish

Once You're There: Move Around

Here's something I see constantly with new anglers: they find one pool and hammer it for hours.

Think about what you're doing on the 37th cast to the same fish. You are trying to get an animal that does not think to change its mind.

Trout don't really change their minds.

This is why:

  • The first cast always has the highest take rate
  • When you put on a new fly, you often get a strike on the first cast

The Movement Rule

If you've made 10-15 good casts to a spot and haven't had any interest, move.

I'm not saying move 5 feet. I'm saying move to completely different water:

If You've Been Fishing...Try...
Deep waterShallow water
Fast waterSlow water
Near rocksThe middle of the river
The head of a poolThe tail of a pool
Pocket waterA long flat run

You never know what will work until you try it. And the fish you haven't cast to yet are infinitely more likely to eat than the fish that just watched your fly drift by 15 times.

The 80/20 of Finding Fish

The payoff for finding good water - a healthy trout from a small mountain stream

The payoff for finding good water - a healthy trout from a small mountain stream

Most of the time, fish are in predictable locations. Here's what to look for:

Structure and Cover

Trout need:

  • Protection from current - They don't want to fight the full force of the river all day
  • Protection from predators - Overhead cover like undercut banks, logs, or deep water
  • Access to food - They want food to drift past without working too hard

Spots that provide all three:

  • Where fast water meets slow water (current seams)
  • Behind large rocks
  • Under undercut banks
  • At the heads and tails of pools
  • In deeper runs along the bank

The "Edge" Principle

Fish live on edges. The edge between:

  • Fast and slow water
  • Deep and shallow water
  • Light and shadow
  • Main current and slack water

When you're looking at the river, look for edges. That's where the fish are.

Common Beginner Mistakes

Mistake 1: Fishing the Most "Fishy Looking" Spot

That beautiful, deep pool in the middle of the river? Every angler who's ever walked by has fished it. Those fish have seen everything.

Meanwhile, that skinny, unimpressive riffle 50 yards downstream? Most people walk right past it. Those fish haven't seen a fly in weeks.

Fish the water everyone walks past.

Mistake 2: Starting Too Far Upstream

Work your way upstream, not down. When you wade, you stir up sediment that flows downstream. If you walk upstream first and then fish down, you're fishing through water you just muddied.

Plus, trout face upstream. If you approach from downstream, you're sneaking up behind them.

Mistake 3: Ignoring the Water at Your Feet

Don't wade straight into the river. Fish are often holding in the shallow water along the bank - right where most anglers stomp through on their way to the "good" water.

Before you wade, make a few casts to the near water. You might be surprised.

Mistake 4: Fishing Through Bad Conditions

Sometimes the answer is "not today."

If you show up and:

  • Water visibility is less than 6 inches (chocolate brown from recent rain)
  • Flows are 3x or more above the median for this date
  • You can't safely wade across riffles that normally look crossable
  • Fish are visibly stressed and skittish in low, warm water

Don't force it. Go get lunch, scout other access points, or call it a day. Part of finding good water is recognizing when conditions make any water bad water.

Mistake 5: Not Having a Backup Plan

The access point you planned on is packed with anglers. The creek you drove an hour to reach is blown out. The weather changed.

Always have Plan B and Plan C. Before you leave:

  • Identify at least two other waters in the general area
  • Check flows on all of them
  • Know where parking/access is for each

This turns disappointment into adventure. "Well, X didn't work out, but I've always wanted to try Y anyway."

Putting It All Together

Pre-Trip Checklist

Before you head out, run through this list:

  • Checked flows on target water (and backup options)
  • Checked weather forecast (morning and afternoon)
  • Know where parking is for each option
  • Have your fishing license (and any required stamps)
  • Identified backup water if Plan A doesn't work
  • Told someone where you're going and when you'll be back

The Process

Here's my process for finding a new spot to fish:

  1. Research online - Look at Google Maps satellite view for access points, paths along rivers, parking areas
  2. Identify 2-3 options - Don't put all your eggs in one basket
  3. Visit a local fly shop - Ask for opinions on your specific options, buy some flies
  4. Scout in person - Drive by your spots before committing, look for other anglers and water conditions
  5. Start fishing the edges - Work the obvious structure first
  6. Move frequently - If 10 casts gets nothing, find new water
  7. Take notes - What worked, what didn't, what you want to try next time

The goal isn't to find the one perfect secret spot. The goal is to build a mental map of water you know - where the fish hold at different flows, what hatches happen when, which spots fish best in morning vs. evening.

That knowledge only comes from time on the water. And you can only spend time on the water if you actually go fishing instead of endlessly searching for the "right" place.

So pick a creek. Find an access point. Go fish.


A Note on Safety

Finding water is also about finding safe water. A few basics:

Wading safety:

  • Use a wading staff until you're comfortable reading water
  • Never wade deeper than thigh-high in moving water until you're experienced
  • Felt soles grip rock better; rubber soles with studs work in most conditions
  • If you're unsure, don't cross - there's fish on this side too

Wildlife:

  • Make noise in bear country
  • Know what poison ivy/oak looks like in your area
  • Give snakes (and moose) plenty of space

Weather:

  • Lightning kills anglers every year - if you hear thunder, get off the water
  • Afternoon thunderstorms are predictable in mountain country - plan to be off exposed water by 2pm in summer
  • Cold water + cold rain = hypothermia risk even in summer

Being alive tomorrow matters more than catching fish today.


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